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craniumfitteds.com

craniumfitteds.com

Well here is another online cool guy streetwear shop. Like we need another place to sell crooks and castles. I wish I could say one thing nice about this shop, wait I think i can – they carry 9 Grand clothing.  Fist off they had nothing new to sell, second the way their shopping is set up really sucks. You would think with all the online stores out there they would have done a little shopping research. Rule Number one when opening an online store call the guys a Digital Marauders to get it done right.  Now are you a fitted hat shop? or a streetwear clothing store? If you are a fitted hat shop then take the time to search out some real underground lids don’t be lazy and just carry what every one else does. Please go back to the drawing board and start over.

Apollo Kids

We were sent two tees by this California based company, so here’s the scoop. I want to review this company in two ways: the first one purely fashion based, the second purely based off of their “philosophy” which they tried to convey on their website. Let’s start with the gear: they make 6 t-shirts. This is not a “collection”, sorry!  But hey, we’re in a recession, and everyone’s cutting down. So let’s move forward from that, but it had to be said, that this is nowhere near a complete line. I do have to say though, these are dope designs. I like almost the entire “line”….i wasn’t blown away, but i like them. We were sent these two:

Maybe i’m jaded cause i just watched “Tyson”, an amazing documentary about Iron Mike, so i loved that design. A nice two tone, pixelated, interesting design. Straightforward, clean and simple. Not much more to add. The “Old Dirty Bastard is in heaven” tee is a bit silly, i mean is he really ?, but it’s a cool way to rep for all the fans, ODB as we knew him: dirty. I don’t know what the source was for the original picture and i have to laugh at ODB ever being an angel, but hey, for the fans, this is a cool RIP tee. Both prints were nicely done, on a fairly standard tee, with details being the logo on the left sleeve as well as a printed logo and details inside the neck. Not much more and no prints on the back. All in all, i’d rock either one a few times, definitely the Tyson one.

Since this is a small “line”, i  might as well feature all the other designs as well:

I like the logo, but in general not a fan of rockin’ logo tees, the lion design reminiscent of stukko or ornamental decorations on and inside of old buildings, has been done to death by the likes of Green Apple Tree and similar, but the fishscale design as well as the “Real Men Wear Black” (really?) are very nicely executed. Once again clean and simple, yet geometrically intricate, interesting layouts and classy enough to be rocked with a blazer, these really represent the highlights of the “collection” to me. All in all, there is not one tee that i did not like, it’s a solid start, and i hope they will be able to translate their clean t-shirt designs into a full line of cut and sew and other articles. Best of Luck!

I do have to talk about this company’s mission statement a little, as well as their website. Though it’s layed out quite nicely, the very first picture is a congregation of muslims praying in a mosque. Though the logo is a pretty straight rip from the turkish flag (the owner’s name looks spanish to me so i am not sure what the connection is there), i see the connection to the muslims praying but then again, that is religion you’re bringing into the picture, and that already turns me off right off the bat. Keep that out of streetwear. There is no need for it and nowhere else on this site are you making any sort of religious reference, so this is just completely unnecessary. Another thing: here is an excerpt from the mission statement…

“Produced in California and currently focusing on men’s clothing, the Apollo Kids’ line is a reflection of who we were, who we are and who we what to be (the past, present and future). Each design represents a significant influence on the Apollo Kids, which could be anything from music to the arts to social issues. Admittedly the line is only a tool to support a greater cause.

The Apollo Kids’ main cause is to motivate and support individuals to make the world the way they see fit. Whether that’s politically, artistically, spiritually, environmentally, it does not matter, as long the individual recognizes his/her own strengths and passions and utilizes them to the fullest. In essence…”

So your influences are Tyson and Old Dirty Bastard. Fair enough. But what social issues are you addressing ? And if this line is only a tool to support a greater cause, which cause is that ? Where is my money going ? I’d love it if this was some sort of charity i’m supporting but please don’t spew out big ideas with no support whatsoever. And if your main cause is to “motivate and support individuals to make the world as they see fit, whether it’s politically, (…), spiritually, environmentally….” what exactly are you referring to ? Are you fighting the pollution of the oceans ? Who are you supporting politically ? And what do you mean “it does not matter” ??? Are you out of your mind ? IT MATTERS VERY MUCH!!! The KKK is really only a group of individuals making the world as they see fit. Do you support them as well ? This is such a wishy washy all over the place statement, you’re much better off to just say: “I love design. Here are some cool tees.” Don’t try to make it something bigger without having any details to back what the hell you’re saying. To quote Mr. Chappelle: “When keeping it real goes wrong!”

Last piece of advice: don’t sell one color prints at $32 dollars a tee, and please tell us on your site which stores you’re in. Best of luck, the clapback will keep watchin ya!

Check out:

http://www.apollokidsonline.com/

Keep this company on yer radars, peoples!

Retail Dish For all of you Retailer that think you can get away with ordering goods and not paying for them, well your time has come!!!!!! For all you brands you should hit up this site to find out if the shop pays or not. Its time to stand up and not take this any more.

Check it out www.retaildish.com

Bonafide Icon

We were recently hit up by this NYC clothing company to review some of their shirts, so i finally got around to take some time and check out their new line, website and write ups. I’m gonna start with the website, because right off the bat it gave me trouble starting this article: Their main site is clean, easy to navigate, but a bit unimaginative and bordering on boring. I did want to copy and paste their Brand Statement here, but couldn’t…why ? cause it’s a flash site! Ok here is a quick lesson: when you have a brand, especially a smaller one, you want people to copy and paste things off of your site…text, pics..all of that. It helps your stuff pop up everywhere, and when your site is simple to begin with, why even bother with flash ? Ok so that being said, i quote from their email:

“The Bonafide Icon brand was presented in 2005, based out of NYC. The name “Bonafide Icon” means being recognized and held in honor among the elites. The brand stems from the different elements of the New York lifestyle. Bonafide Icon has adopted the phrase “League Leaders” and uses influences from music, art, movies, sneakers and pop culture and infuses them into graphics with a strong sports emphasis. With this, Bonafide Icon’s hard work results in the mixture of innovative, dynamic concepts and creative graphics.”

Now to say it in a few words: this line is about sports, and sport icons. Basically, if you’re a famous athlete, you’re an icon, and no one can dispute that, and this line appeals to the sport fans who wanna look a bit fresher than simply rockin jerseys or lame fan shop articles.

I was also sent a description of every shirt, but i rarely read them because in my mind, the shirt has to stand on it’s own. It’s like a piece of art: the story behind it should only enhance the impact, not be the meat and the foundation. Especially, because it means something different to everyone and inspiration is the opposite end of result. That being said, this is a line for sports enthusiasts, who like specific sports icons.

When that is clear in the shirt, the shirt ends up working, makes sense and looks dope.

Such as these two tees, which are hommages to the boxing greats as well as clyde frazier:

UNDISPUTED TEE

blow undisputed

bazzar_undiputed

CLYDE TEE:

blow clyde

bazzar_clyde

I do enjoy these tees, because they’re concise and clear. You know what you’re getting, and it’s either for you or it’s not. And the brand message is clearly reflected.

This is exactly what i’m missing from the other designs. I see the connection but the designs themselves seem hastily put together and just don’t look good. The message is unclear, and the design is poorly executed. A few examples….

Pro Stars Tee: I don’t get it. Lame design

blow pro

Point Gods Tee: Ok a bunch of great point guards. I guess for the hardcore basketball fans ? Designwise, it’s boring.

blow point

Showtime Tee: Now this is pretty cool. Definitely ironic, made me smile remembering the movie….but this is a fictional character…how does this relate to honoring the great athletes above ? This does not fit at all! The design makes sense though, cool ironic tee. Would rock it once, but that’d be it. It’s purely for that instant smile, but gets stale pretty quickly. And peoples: the 80’s trend has passed. You still see it out there, but come on. Let’s keep it moving…

sydney_deaneblow

There are some logo based tees and a hat, not really worth mentioning (check website links at the end).

I did save the best for last though! Now this design comes in a tee and in sweatshirt, and it’s fucking dope! A nice stab at the overpaid yankees and really nicely put together (maybe i got that wrong, but that’s how i see it! now if i would’ve read the shirt description it might have been something completely different but hey, i don’t see t-shirt descriptions hanging in stores, so i treat the tees as if they were hanging on a rack someplace):

Salary Cap Tee & Sweater:

bazzar_scap

bazzarsalary_crew

Those are fresh! Good times. Would totally rock those to the ballpark….The Mets one that is!

All in all it seems like this company is on the right track. They have a goal in mind and appeal to the sports fans amongst the streetwear heads. There aren’t many other companies doing this. I like that they managed to hit the concept dead on with a few shirts, really making icons of their favorite athletes and allowing their clientele to look fresh promoting their love for sports. Everyone has a favorite team and is a boy / girl at heart with the wide eyed amazement we have for what seem like superhuman feats at times. It’s not quite developed yet though and some of the designs are pretty boring (stop making logo based tees! seriously, what is the point ? branding does not work for small timers, be original! especially during these, often hard, times…).

Check out their site and online store:

http://www.bonafideicon.com/

http://www.bonafideicon.com/shop.htm

Definitely keeping Bonafide Icon on the Radar (great name as well!). And so should yoy!

Clapback out!

I recently visited this shop in the Park Slope section of Brooklyn and left with mixed feelings. I have heard about this shop and a friend had told me about their gear, so i was curious to see what they have to offer as well as check out their line. The shop is pretty nice, small but neatly put together. Some brooklyn focused artwork on the walls, a decent sneaker selection and…it kind of ends right there. There are a limited amount of t-shirts available, and out of 4 shelves one featured exclusively Rogue Status, which i would consider somewhat played out. It is a skate company owned by Rob Dyrdek, and even though i appreciate DC, Rob and his business ventures, the design with the guns going diagonally across the shirt has been rocked to death. On the other hand i must say that that the tees and hats by premium goods, with the word “brooklyn” across in a simple font but with each letter in a different color and on a neutral background is fresh as hell. It’s a very simple way to make a clean, impressive shirt / hat and since a garment with simply “brooklyn” on it has been done a million times, they managed to make an interesting and clean version of it. I really liked it and might go back to cop one of each.

Now let me discuss what left a sour taste in my mouth: first of all, the selection was very limited. A few tees, even less hoodies / jackets, and one style of hat (their own) in 4 colorways. Though the sneaker selection was not bad at all, the rest is really slim pickins. “Why have a shop ?” is the eternal question with nyc streetwear stores. There is a reason why only the shops with great selection stay in business, and even a lot of them are struggling. But the coup de grace for me was really the complete and absolute lack of any service whatsoever. The owners (as i came to find out), chilled outside the store chatting with each other. No one even entered the store while i was in there. No “hey check this out” or “let me know if you like something” or “hey we just got these dope sneakers in”. There used to be such a thing as a hustle, but these days it seems like everyone is too cool to even budge. Or scared to. Now i understand that you’re the king of the universe for owning a shop, but you’re just being rude, pathetic and downright an asshole, for ignoring your clientele. It’s just tiring. No wonder these shops are folding one after another. To be honest: Good Riddance! Shove that attitude where the sun don’t shine, and make room for people who are genuinely interested in the hustle, in providing quality gear to their clients and who are interested in meeting people and creating a streetwear community. I felt like i was not even allowed to step foot in that place. What a pathetic bunch.

If you feel like copping some of their gear, i say go ahead, it’s pretty cool. But if you expect to be treated like a human being, yeah…not gonna happen. All in all, don’t waste your time on this shop. There are much better ones where the staff actually cares about you and spends time helping you select cool gear as well as introduce you to lines you might have never heard of.

The hustle is officially dead. It’s just a bunch of posers. Next!

I Just want to brag about the fact that we were able to get the best design house in NYC Digital Marauders to Build the New clapback blog site. We are very excited that the guys at Digital Marauders were able to fit us in before the end of the year. For those of you who have no Idea who Digital Marauders are you better take the time to find out. This crew has done every thing from A custom Nike to some of the best Jeans in the streetwear market.  The have work with the best clothing companies in US. Thanks Guys for fitting us in. And to the rest of you still of the Digital Marauders wait list Suck it!!!!!!!!

For all of you in the fashion world now that CIT is the backer for most of the lines small to Med size. Some of you are thinking this could be good for my line this may push out the lines that have over spent. In turn this is another sign that we have become so greedy we relay on someone elses money now we are seeing it all crashing down around us. I know some Clothing companies are sweating balls today waiting to see if they are going to File Chapter 11. If so Kiss your money good bye. Here is something for you all stop being so greedy make money the old fashion way work hard on your own dime.

Durkl Clothing

Durkl

Durkl Clothing

The Line that could have been.

enlightenblueIt has taken me a while to get the review up because I really wanted to take my time with this one. When they first sent me an email to review this line I was so excited to see what they would send me. The some great Jackets on their site and in the line sheet they sent me. Instead they send me the 3 most boring shirts from their line. But who am I to back out of a Review so I felt like I need to push on. Let me start off with the Quality of the Tee it self. I don’t think they cut their own tees so it kinda feels like a 6.2 oz Hanes tee once again nothing special. But on the up side the shirt it self took a beating. I think washed it about 8 times and it never got fuzzy or the color did not fade. This is just your general Tee. Now on to the Art. Lets start with the better of the 3 . The ENLIGHTEN royal blue 100% cotton I guess I am lost here I really don’t understand how this ties into their whole 80’s art hipster look. I felt like this one started out better then it finished.  The last Two design will be grouped together thats how bad they are.

STICKER LOGO white

STICKER LOGO white

The good life

The good life

The stickerlogo and the goodlife prints are some of the worst designs that I have ever seen come across my desk. I feel they took no time to run and think out some good quality work. These should have been cut out of the line up. There is so many 80’s style design that you could taken from to get some creative ideas. Or next time don’t send me your worst stuff.

Now with all that said lets get to some of the stuff that I feel makes this a line that could be a player in the fashion world. You already know that I hate most of their print work, but their cut and sew is off the charts. Drukl you should have sent me the cut and sew goods this what every one wants to see. Here are a few items that I love but can not recomend becuase I have not rocked it. But they look amazing.The gridlock jacket is one of the sickest jackets I have seen in  along time. Great fucking job to who ripped that one out.

flannelprp_lg

Gridlock

Gridlock

navalstripe_navy

Listen Gang Durkl could be a very sick line but it seems like the are two different people in one company. The cut and sew is off the charts but the printed tees are lacking a ton. You guys could be the next big thing if you bring the weak end of your line up to Par. But for sure this in one line I am going to keep my eye on. Great name, good idea,  keep it moving.

Teruo Artistry

Teruo Artistry (awesome name!) is an interesting new brand from the Bay Area. My very first impression is that of a brand that is still somewhat trying to find themselves but are off to a good start. The idea behind the brand is a combination of being rather general, yet also thought out. What i mean by that is that i really liked their story (the name is the first name of the owner’s grandfather, read the whole story here: http://www.teruo.com/company.html) but their mission statement is a bit vague and sounds like some page filler most labels write (we didn’t like what we saw, we made our own, we’re creating something from nothing bla).

Their designs are clean, using nice coloring and a bit going against what is popular right now: their prints are rather small, in comparison with the full front prints or allover prints that flood the market at the moment. I’m a bit torn, since i like the idea, and their designs are simple yet expressive buuuut nothing new. A microphone, a boombox, a grammophone, a tape, a speaker…all elements of design we’ve seen a thousand times over. I guess it’s part of a lot of people’s lives (we all love music, we wanna rep where we’re from) but i don’t see a lot of originality from a purely iconic point of view. I do have to admit though that the colors are nicely put together, the designs are very clean and there is an undeniable Teruo look. I always appreciate lines that are put together well: 

alltees 

SOURCE: http://store.teruo.com/tshirts-2.aspx

They did send us the LIFE IN STEREO shirt though and i must say: excellent printing (very smooth), nice details (inside print, lining, embroidery on the back, sleeve print) and something i have never seen done before…..and i’ll quote “No Two Prints alike, handpicked fabric from around the world uniquely accents each print”. To clarify, there is a piece of fabric stitched into the back of each tee (near the bottom), that is unique with each tee. I am not sure how that would work, especially once you start selling 100’s then 1000’s of units, yet it’s still a really cool idea. I’m sure you’ll find some tees with the same patterns…i don’t really want to spend too much time speculating…still a fantastic idea which has not been done before (that i know of). Here are some pics i took and what i grabbed from their site:

fullshirt

fullshirtback

IMG_1733

IMG_1740

IMG_1743

IMG_1747 

All around dope shirt, interesting approach. Great way to stand out from the pack!

They also make 1 hoodie, which i don’t like design wise, it’s a bit cheesy and the gun design has been overdone, but once again, very nicely put together with printed stitched and woven details, colorful and on a clean dark background. So for those down with that design, this would be a dope hoodie to get, it’s a matter of personal taste, but you simply cannot deny the love for details and quality:

Last but not least they also make hats. One thing i don’t think is effective, is for younger companies to put their logo on hats, without any other adornments or in any other funky way. The brand is not strong enough yet for kids to rock simply the logo, even though it’s nice and clean, it’s smarter to focus more on design and have more interesting hats than just a majority of purely logo based ones. In Teruo’s case, they have too many logo hats and not enough design ones, but the two hats that are not just the logo are DOPE! Pure freshness. Check it:

    

This also comes in a brown / yellow sun colorway. Very, very nice usage of the logo and japanese influenced design. I was blown away. 

In closing, this is a really cool up and coming brand, keep your eyes peeled. I’m interested to see how they develop their designs, and maybe add some more unique symbols. I highly recommend their website, it’s easy to browse, has a bunch of cool info in their blog (regularly updated!) and though i am not too hype on every single item, the line looks nicely put together, makes sense within their mission statement and could easily fit into a highly specialized streetwear shop or simply a skate / record store. Keep it comin’ Teruo! And send us some of those fresh hats ;)

Make sure to hit up:

http://www.teruo.com/blog/b.html

 

Methods Clothing NYC

So i’ve been following this company for a long time. Basically since the beginning. The concept is pretty cool, a company from Brooklyn (the owners are not from NYC at all, just fyi) which prints the work of artists from North America and Europe on T-Shirts. That is pretty much the premise. This has never really been a streetwear company per se, and has not really done anything besides print T-Shirts. More on this later.

They just dropped their spring line, which is rather meek: 6 t-shirts. They do come in three color ways each but it’s still only 6 t-shirts, being dropped at almost the beginning of May, but let’s say it’s hard economic times and everyone has to cut back. I’ll give them the benefit of the doubt. What i do have to criticize is that after what i believe is 5 years of being in business (somewhere close to that), this company has released nothing but printed t-shirts (feels like Gildan 2000, i.e. they are NOT custom), with 1 hat in three different colors and a few hoodies (with the logo and a collab with Konkrete Jungle). Just last year they released 1 more hat, which i actually thought was dope, and i might have missed every single item they ever released by my point remains: after half a decade they are still only printing t-shirts of various artists’ design. Not one piece of cut-n-sew and no stitching whatsoever on the t-shirts, which most streetwear companies do (the stitching) or at least it has become a lot more common.

This is a bit disappointing i believe. I think after all this time there has to be some progression as to not be pigeon holed, yet i think that ship has sailed.

So now let’s check out this “Spring Line”. There are two shirts that struck my eye. One right away, the other after looking at it a few times. The first one is the Keymaster:

keymaster Methods NYC

They have had the artist SUPERBLAST do various designs for them in the past and i personally think he’s fantastic, and even if i didn’t love everything he did for them, i still think his designs have ranked amongst the best ones for Methods. I like the interesting, distinctive style, the clean approach and the almost tribal feel of his work. Which leaves one asking: “is this really a Methods shirt, or a Superblast shirt ?” My point is that Methods has trouble defining their stuff as distinctly Methods Signature. Even if you release a different line every season, at least create cohesion within that line, but they say they come up with a theme (last season “Dreams and Nightmares”, this season “Pressure”), yet the designs are so greatly different from each other.

The 2nd shirt i liked is called Under Pressure:

underpressure1

Ok i have to stop for a second, because Methods has been doing this for a while: printing what looks like comic book sketches  / designs on T-shirts. I have never liked this approach and it has become a staple for them. The designs look like heat transfers, unfinished, just something printed on a shirt without thinking about the shirt itself as a medium. Maybe i’m being unclear, but i just don’t think it works. Check out these designs:

pression
nonstop
toodeep

The designs look like anything that could be done by ecko or tribal or even something more generic. There is no flavor to them, they’re just colorful and / or b&w sketches. I just don’t think they work, and in comparison to the keymaster design up above, they are so starkly different, no relation whatsoever. The only exception is the Under Pressure shirt, where i think that this approach works, where the design makes sense in a sketched fashion in my opinion.  And what is up with the consistent back prints ? In general methods just prints everything center chest and center upper back. No variety whatsoever.

Now last but not least, two things. One the worst design out of those six (in such a limited run, all shirts should be above average in my opinion but i know we all have different taste), is the Rescue1:

rescue1

I don’t think i have to add anything to this. it’s just a terrible design and a bad look. i do not see anybody rocking this, not even for brand loyalty. I have to admit i do like the idea behind it, making a design out of a swiss alp rescue team logo, that’s kinda cool, and i think maybe as a dope jacket or nice sweatshirt, this could have been pulled off nicely with some patches and nice stitch work….but this print is just awful.

Second, here is the one item they have put out (last year) that has nice stitching, a dope idea (making the logo into revolvers) and trying to create something cohesive in relation to the garment. It’s unique (not the gun but the way it was incorporated) and does not necessarily need any other garment to match up with within the line but stands out on it’s own:

sixshooterhat

Just wanted to end on a positive note with my critique.

In my prediction, this company will remain a t-shirt printing company, with very litte custom stuff, and lines that may have a theme but will always be them printing random artists’ stuff, which, if the artist decided to print it themselves, could easily do so, but why, when they can just use Methods as a promotional vehicle. It has not evolved in 5 years, why should the next 5 (if that) be that much different.

I will not get into details on the pointless events (in my opinion) that they attach themselves to (all within NYC and often with musical styles and artists that are very underground, but that is not how you grow, you’re only burying yourself in the underground), you can just follow it all on:

www.methodsnyc.com

and form your own opinion. I wish them all the best as we do with most companies, but i don’t see them ever being a big label, mostly due to obstacles and walls they put up themselves.

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